The Bois de Vincennes, the largest public park in Paris, created between 1855 and 1866 when Napoleon III authorized Haussmann to transform the woods next to the Chateau de Vincennes into a recreation area for the growing working class population.

Today, you can visit the Chateau de Vincennes, and then take a short walk to the park. As we sat in the park eating our lunch, two geese arrived.

The Wild Canadian Goose was very independent and enjoyed the park and the lake; but the other goose, purchased when he was just three days old, was a little more reluctant to leave her side.

The owner was very patient and kept coaxing him closer to the lake and he finally relaxed and tested the waters.

The lady found a wounded goose in the park and took it home to nurse it back to health. Since she was unable to find anyone to take the goose, she decided to keep it and became accustomed to taking care of the goose. She used to bring the goose to the park, but one day a dog attacked the goose and he died. When she got the new geese, she was a little more cautious and bought a twin carriage to transport them back and forth to the lake. It was a real treat to watch the geese and take a few photos.

Goose Carriage

We walked along the Canal Saint-Martin, an artificial waterway that Napoleon had built in 1802, so fresh water would be available to support the growing population and avoid diseases. The canal, funded by a new tax on wine, was completed in 1825.

The canal is 4.5 km long and connects the Canal de l’Ourcq to the Seine. Two streets run parallel to the canal; the Quai de Valmy and the Quai de Jemmapes. On Sundays the streets close so that pedestrians and cyclists can safely enjoy the area.

In 1848, rioters had taken refuge on the east side of the canal knowing that government troops had limited access into the Faubourg (suburb) Saint-Antoine. During Haussmannization, part of the canal was paved over to form the Boulevard Richard-Lenoir in the 11th Arrondissement. This also allowed for better military access to the area.

Part of the canal is underground between the Bastille and Republique metros. Above the opening of the underground canal, in the 10th arrondissement is the Square Frederick-Lemaitre. Frédérick Lemaitre, born Antoine Louis Prosper Lemaître (July 28, 1800-January 26, 1876) was a French actor and playwright, known for his comedy. Throughout Paris you see monuments and plaques that highlight the history of the area, little bits of the culture that make you want to know more.

This area was considered a working class area during the 19th century. Now you see more professionals and students moving into the area, in search of reasonable apartments; and a different sense of community.

Along the canal are restaurants and bars where people watch the barges go through the series of locks that raise and lower the water level so that barges can move up or down stream.

A series of foot bridges allow you to cross the canal, and the Pont Levant de la rue de Crimee or Pont de Flandre raises when boats need to go under.

This area has fewer tourists, and the restaurant staff are less likely to speak any English. There was also a lot more graffiti on the walls and buildings. Since I don’t know a lot about street art or graffiti, I’m not sure if this area had more graffiti as a form of artistic expression or of making social comments and being heard. In the higher tourist areas of Paris, the city removes the graffiti daily. The types of stores and shops were also different from the higher tourist areas. These stores seem geared more for the local people. It was a very comfortable and quiet neighborhood. You can relax and just enjoy the sights around you without dodging a lot of people.

While films were not actually shot in Paris until the 1950s, in the 1930s, the Canal Saint-Martin was the site of Marcel Carne’s film Hotel du Nord which portrayed the city as a haunting, unchanging place that had little to offer the working class and focused on working class crime.

The canal also appears in Amelie, the 2001 film by Jean-Pierre Jeunet, in which Amelie skips stones at the locks of the canal. But, Amelie is another story for later.

The Champ de Mars, named after the Campus Martius (Mars Field) in Rome, as a tribute to the Greek God of war,  is a wide tree-lined lawn area located between the Eiffel Tower and the École Militaire. Located in the 7th arrondissement on the left bank, the lawns were first used as a drilling and marching grounds by the French military.

Today the Champ de Mars is public space enjoyed by everyone.

The Champ de Mars was host to some of our classes, picnics and other public celebrations we experienced while in Paris.

During the summer, government sponsored childcare programs offer entertaining and educational programs for children three to six years old. Like our class, children enjoyed the beauty and open space on the Champ de Mars.

Trying to focus on class, we were forced to pause and look at the breathtaking bride and groom strolling across the Champ de Mar creating memories with the Eiffel Tower as a backdrop. This was my first, and favorite Paris bride. For the rest of the trip, I kept my eyes open for a chance to capture more brides. 

Sometimes you get lucky . . . enjoying the fluffy cloud formations as we approached Paris, a reflection of our plane surrounded by a rainbow moved across the window.

Then, as we broke through the clouds I got my first glance of Paris.

On the ground, other interesting sites included this building with plants on top. If anyone knows about this building please let me know.

Arriving at 6:30 a.m. you stumble into the women’s restroom, a smile crosses your face as you are lifted by the colorful stall doors. You smile again as you watch the faces of women trying to figure out where the sink is or how this flat sink works. What a way to start the day. The smiles never stopped while I was in Paris; and every time I remember Paris, the smiles continue.

In order to get a feel for Paris, you will need to visit all 20 of its arrondissements or municipal districts. These districts form a clockwise spiral from the middle of the city. Medieval Paris included the 1st through 6th arrondissements – abbrieviated (eme) or (e). The Renaissance and early Modern period included the 8th to 11th eme; and the industrialized city included all twenty arrondissements. Each arrondissement has its own mayor; is numbered using Roman numerals; and the last two digits of Parisian postal codes indicates the arrondissement (75001 to 75020). Each arrondissement is also subdivided into four quartiers and each quartier contains a police station. The first twelve arrondissements created by law on October 11, 1795 as a means of controlling militancy during the French Revolution. The size of Paris increased between 1859 to 1860; and on January 1, 1860 Napoleon III, rearranged the new territory and increased the number of arrondissements to 20. The inner spiral (3-11) reaches around to the Bastille where the outer spiral (12-20) begins.

As I share pictures and stories, I will try to remember to include which arrondissement they are in so that you will get a feel for the various neighborhoods. This map gives you an idea of the neighborhoods and how Paris developed.

Is travel important to you? Do you feel that you don’t have enough money to travel? Has Europe or Paris always been a dream destination? You may think you don’t have the money to travel, but don’t give up. There are a multitude of ways to realize your dream, and frequent flyer programs may be one of the possibilities.

Although Paris may take over 100,000 frequent flyer miles, those miles can add up fast.  You can earn miles for things you do every day. Dining, shopping (including paying for textbooks), renting cars, staying at a hotel, opening a credit card account, making department store purchases on line and much more. You can also buy miles or take advantage of other special promotions. Take a look at one of their current promotions now.

When I first started traveling, I signed up for all frequent flyer programs. I finally settled on American Airlines because their miles don’t expire. I didn’t need to use the expiring miles on magazines that I didn’t want and didn’t read. I haven’t looked into frequent flyer programs in a long time so things may have changed but I’m a diehard American Airlines follower now.

If you don’t know where to start join AAdvantage now . It’s free to join and you can start earning miles today.

Travel will inspire you and expand the possibilities in your life. For those of you that aren’t using your miles, or just have too many miles, feel free to gift or donate your miles to me -AA#519uk64; or to the Make a Wish Foundation.

My favorite café gourmand – café crème, honey ice cream, chocolate mousse and crème brulee.

Most restaurants in Paris offer a café gourmand on their menu. It’s a creation that includes an espresso and a few mini-desserts, served on the same plate. The mini-desserts are usually the choice of the Chef, but some of the smaller restaurants will let you choose from a variety of pre-determined Chef selections. On my last day in Paris my waiter at the Café Primrose let me order my two favorite items.

Wikipedia claims that café gourmand began in Paris in 2005, but who knows? The translation for café gourmand is gourmet coffee; or greedy coffee. All I know is it’s a way to have a variety of desserts, in portions that don’t make you feel too guilty!!!

My last café gourmand in Paris – café crème and sweet cheese with raspberry coulis; and a café crème

Someone else’s Café Gourmand

“A Moveable Feast” is a series of short stories about Hemingway’s early years in Paris from 1921 to 1926. The stories highlight the life of a young writer and the development of his writing process. Reading the book after seeing Paris, allowed me to recognize some of the streets, places and people mentioned in the stories and relive my experiences. Once you visit Paris, the book can ignite memories and can bring a smile to your heart and transport you back to Paris in a flash. As Hemingway said, “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”

This site represents my moveable feast; the memories of Paris that will never be lost; that I will carry around with me wherever I go. As this site grows I will try to remember to point out to you the streets, places, and the people mentioned in this book so you can truly share my memories and discoveries.

While trying to limit the food posts, this photo of my favorite cup of coffee which also happens to be Hemingway’s favorite . . . café crème . . . could not be avoided. When you go to Paris for the first time and order café, they will bring you an espresso unless you specify café au lait or café crème. So make the waiters happy and be specific about your coffee.

In love with Paris and Hemingway – Some of his quotes and a link to his Key West, Florida home and museum. July 21, 2014 marked the 115th anniversary of Ernest Hemingway’s birth – remember and celebrate his genius.